is aireation really important? i bought a 10 gal starter tank not so long ago. they didn't hav any airstone or anything like that. also i've recently set up the tank but i couldn't work the filter and left it for a day.the next day it has little bubbles almost everywhere.now i got the filter working should i worry? and wat were the little bubbles?bacteria?
Answers:
Bubbles beautify your aquarium display, improve water quality, and make your aquarium more hospitable for inhabitants. They are always a good idea but notabsolutely necessary. Starting anew tank is more then just filling it up. Here is an excellent article which you should look through before buying your first fish.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/articl. (although your local pet store will test your water for you if you bring in a sample).
A
the little bubles were probably bubbles from the water. If you put water in a glass eventually all the air in the water turns to small bubbles on the glass. I woudn't worry about bacteria if you have your filter systom up and running now.
Yes aireation is important, no air in the water equals no fish. If you fish start to go up on their side and not be able to move, swirl the water for a bit to get some air in there because your fish are not able to breathe. If the filter is working, as long as it is putting out a good flow (basically has a watefall) then you are good to go. If not you need to get an air stone, bubble wall, or a pump that just moves the water.
As for the bubbles, that could be from too much chemicals in the water, which those will die down as you add more water, also, it could be the air that was in the water and now is gone up into bubbles.
they are find, bubbles will go away. Normally, new tank has bubbles. You should buy a coupld of cheap fish like rosy reds to cycle the tank so the new fish will get used to it.
Also, when you change water, don't change all, change at most 50% of it. I do 10% every week.
As far as air stone goes, it is optionsl. The filter is fine and works fine even when the bubbles are there..
The bubbles supplies a surface area for gases to exchange.By aerating the water you are doing two things The bubbles provide an exchange of oxygen into the water and they cause water movement. An outside filter will also help keep the surface of the water moving and remove the pollutants out of the water. If the water is not moving a layer of film made up of air pollutants (Dust, ets.) will form on the tank surface. This layer will act as a barrier which will stop the exchange of gases from the air to and from the tank water. The fish waste and uneaten food give off nitrogen and carbon Dioxide . Live Plants, Filtering, aeration and water changes help remove these gases and increase the level of oxygen.
Don`t work it is nothing to worry about
Don't worry about the air stones and such. Those are just for decoration really. Your filter will agitate the surface water enough to aerate it. The bubbles, as stated that's nothing either just the air in the water. You can read these links for doing a fishless cycle on the tank to get your bacteria started.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/
http://www.aquariumboard.com/forums/home.
Friday, May 8, 2009
A bi-color blenny died in my saltwater tank behind the live rock. How do I keep the water clean.?
How do I keep the nitrate level low.
Answers:
Use Seachem de*nitrate in your filter. Awesome product. It has no bad side effects like many chemical filter medias.
Do not overfeed, that is the most common cause of high nitrates in an established aquarium.
The other most common cause is in a new aquarium and that is that the biological filter has not become established yet. It takes time for the water to cycle and get the biological filter into shape.
Good Luck!
The best cure all to this would be to pick up a few scavengers- crabs, shrimp, snails, etc. They will eat your blennie's body and it will be gone before you know it. If the crabs (or whatever you choose) eat it you will not have a problem because it will be recycled as food and your nitrates and ammonia's will not rise. I have plenty of scavengers in my tank just for that reason. Crabs are best if you are trying to save a few bucks-99 cents each.
Answers:
Use Seachem de*nitrate in your filter. Awesome product. It has no bad side effects like many chemical filter medias.
Do not overfeed, that is the most common cause of high nitrates in an established aquarium.
The other most common cause is in a new aquarium and that is that the biological filter has not become established yet. It takes time for the water to cycle and get the biological filter into shape.
Good Luck!
The best cure all to this would be to pick up a few scavengers- crabs, shrimp, snails, etc. They will eat your blennie's body and it will be gone before you know it. If the crabs (or whatever you choose) eat it you will not have a problem because it will be recycled as food and your nitrates and ammonia's will not rise. I have plenty of scavengers in my tank just for that reason. Crabs are best if you are trying to save a few bucks-99 cents each.
A betta question?
Hi, I bought a male betta 3 days ago. I put him in a nice tank with an artificial plant, some shells,pebbles, a small castle and an air pump. I know bettas don't require a pump but I thought it would be more hygienic. The thing is that my betta stays at the bottom of the tank with the shells/pebbles and goes in between the shells where he finds space and stays still. Sometimes I cannot see him around at all and its very hard to tell if hes moving or not. He only comes to the surface to take a gulp of air, moves around a bit and then finds a hiding spot again.
Is this normal? Whats wrong?
Answers:
I have two betta and they like to sleep at the bottom of the tank for some weird reason. Anyways it might just be shy since you just got it. Thats cool how you got it such a cool little tank and stuff. Good luck
Um, I think you should try removing the pump because that might not be good for betas. Betas only require the minimal amount of care, a bowl with water, some rocks and like a plant thing. and then just food. If worse comes to worse you can just buy another one if you aren't too attached to your current one! *wink* Good luck!
He's fine. Alot of fish like to hide.
He sounds fine to me. Mine would sleep at the bottom of his bowl most of the time for hours on end. I had another named "red" that would sleep at the top of the bowl on his side! I almost flushed him the first time I saw that! Who could have guessed a fish could have personally? You could remove some of his hiding spots, but he will probably continue to sleep at the bottom of the tank anyway. What I would do some times is put two bettas side by side in seperate bowls, of course, and watch them flare at one another. I think this actually kept them healthy because it gave them something to do!
Anyway,
Good Luck
If you look up where Beta's come from and what their natural habitat is like in nature you will see that they like environments with slow moving water and lots of plant cover. They do not like fighting currents and a tank with to much open space will stress them out. Hence he is hiding like so.
It's not abnormal. He may just be stressed from the move, and living in a small cup in the fish store. Also try turning off the pump. Unless it drives a filter it does more harm than good.
Bettas like small spaces and they dont move around very much unless its feeding time. Nothing wrong.
No air pump please. Check to see if that artificial plant is hard or it will tear its tails. Soft silk plants are okay.
My betta liked to sleep at the bottom of the tank but when I got him this ceramic tube which they sold at the fish store, he would go in there and sleep.
first take out the water pump!!
bettas has large tails its REALLY stressful for them if they have to swim in a current, its like trying to run against a storm with a parachute behind you!
here are some info for bettas! check if you did anything wrong!
ACCLIMATING A NEW FISH
What to do now that you’ve purchased your new betta? You need to take it home and slowly get him/her acclimated into its new home. To do this, you should prepare the tank the betta will be going into (making sure the temperature of this tank is room temperature (dechlorinated) water), and then slowly introduce water from the new tank into the holding container the betta came home in. Scoop a few tablespoons of water into the cup every 5 – 10 minutes for about 60 minutes.
NOTE: if you brought the fish home in a bag, it is recommended to place it into a cup for easier acclimation. Plastic solo cups work well for this purpose.
After the 60 minutes, the fish is ready to be carefully lowered into its new home and released!
DIET
Pellets:
HBH Betta Bites, Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
Flakes :
Should be specifically designed for bettas – high in proteins
NOTE: For young or very small bettas, flakes OR crushed pellets are a safer option – to avoid choking.
Frozen foods :
Adult Brine Shrimp, Blood Worms, Black Worms, Krill, Mosquito Larvae, Peas (*great for relieving constipation – see below)
Live foods:
Any of the above mentioned frozen foods can be fed live to bettas, but do run the risk of carrying parasites. Other live foods such as crickets, beetles, moths, etc. CAN be fed to bettas, however you must be 100% positive that the bugs have not been exposed to any pesticides, which can harm or kill your betta.
*Frozen pea preparation – place a small amount of dechlorinated water into microwaveable dish. Place a few peas (usually one pea is plenty for one betta) into the dish. Microwave on high power for 30 seconds. Remove from microwave, cool, remove shell, chop. Feed very small pieces to betta. Usually 2 - 3 pieces is plenty. Avoid feeding other foods to betta for 2 – 3 days. This should get things moving pretty quickly.
TANKMATES
It is important to remember that while most of these recommended tankmates may work fine with most bettas, some bettas do not tolerate any moving creatures in their tanks, and therefore caution should be exercised when adding any new creature into a betta tank.
The following are considered possible tankmates for a betta (male or female):
White Cloud Mountain Minnows
African Dwarf Frogs (NOT Clawed Frogs)
Large Snails (large enough so betta can not eat them)
The following are NOT recommended as possible tankmates for a betta:
Guppies, Mollies, Tetras, Gouramis, Platies, Neon Tetras, African Clawed Frogs, Barbs, or any other brightly colored fish that a betta might mistake as another betta.
AT NO POINT SHOULD TWO MALE BETTAS BE IN THE SAME TANK.
AT NO POINT SHOULD A MALE AND FEMALE BETTA BE PLACED IN THE SAME TANK – except when spawning.
It is acceptable for two males to share a DIVIDED tank, so long as the males are not constantly flaring at each other, causing stress. Giving a betta its own tank is generally the best idea.
TANK SPECIFICATIONS
The ideal tank for a betta will consist of silk or live plants to rest on, some sort of “toy” which could include a bridge, arch, cave, or even a makeshift toy such as a piece of pvc pipe. Bettas are extremely curious creatures and will stick their heads into anything. Make sure that any “toys” which are introduced into the tank has are no holes which a betta’s head could get stuck in. This can cause drowning and/or death, should a betta become too curious and stick its head in.
Make certain there are no open gaps anywhere along aquarium lids –bettas WILL jump – right out of their aquarium and onto the floor, if given the chance. Bettas do prefer tropical temperatures, ranging from 75 – 80 degrees. However, it is acceptable to keep a betta at a steady room temperature of 72 degrees or above. Constant temperatures are essential to keeping bettas healthy.
TANK MAINTENANCE
Regardless of tank size, ALL betta tanks require regular cleanings. ALL WATER that is introduced into a betta tank should be dechlorinated by liquid dechlorinator AND/OR aging, no exceptions.
The following water changing schedule is recommended:
1/2 to gallon to 2.5 gallons – 100% water change every 3 - 5 days
2.5 gallons to 4 gallons – 100% water change once per week
Larger, cycled tanks (established tanks that have been running with a filter for several weeks) – replace 20 – 30% of the water once a week, and gravel vacuum the tank every 2 weeks
NOTE: During 100% water changes, betta should be removed into a holding container (cups that bettas are purchased in from chain stores, solo cups, etc. make good choices) during the water change. Be sure to cover the cup to avoid a jumping betta! DO NOT use a net on a betta with very long fins. This can cause tearing and shredding of fins. Rather, use a cup and gently lower it in the water to catch the fish. Some, or most, of the water will need to be removed first to allow for catching of the fish.
Also during 100% water changes, wiping the tank out with a paper towel, rinsing décor and rinsing gravel or marbles is necessary.
NOTE: When changing water, there are 2 ways to prepare dechlorinated water – ideally, water should be dechlorinated and aged for 2 – 3 days in a holding tank before using for water changes. Sometimes aging water is not practical, so simply dechlorinating tap water is acceptable. ALWAYS make sure the water that the fish is going back into matches the temperature and PH of the water they came out of.
BETTA ILLNESSES
Bettas are susceptible to many illnesses. Some are easy to treat, others are virtually impossible. Some common signs of illness include: clamped fins, swollen or bulging eyes, shredded, torn or bloody fins, general listlessness, white spot, gold dustings, swollen belly, pineconing (or puffed out scales), and many more. With any illness, it is a good idea to begin research immediately. There are many great forums on the web which offer great advice and answers to many betta-related questions.
See all that * about bettas not like large amount of water? Kick it! I don't care what those fools think they know they don't know half of it. Bettas enjoy room to swim, they enjoy being able to move around not put in a cup and left there. MER!
I have a betta for is a rather passive betta and it took him almost three days after I got him to come out of the plant I have in my tank and it took him another 4 to stay out of it when I came over. When ever I do a water change he'll go back into "hiding". I'm sure that you just have a passive fish. Don't worry about it, as long as your tank temp is between 72 and 80F you'll be fine. You might want to remove the filter.
Is this normal? Whats wrong?
Answers:
I have two betta and they like to sleep at the bottom of the tank for some weird reason. Anyways it might just be shy since you just got it. Thats cool how you got it such a cool little tank and stuff. Good luck
Um, I think you should try removing the pump because that might not be good for betas. Betas only require the minimal amount of care, a bowl with water, some rocks and like a plant thing. and then just food. If worse comes to worse you can just buy another one if you aren't too attached to your current one! *wink* Good luck!
He's fine. Alot of fish like to hide.
He sounds fine to me. Mine would sleep at the bottom of his bowl most of the time for hours on end. I had another named "red" that would sleep at the top of the bowl on his side! I almost flushed him the first time I saw that! Who could have guessed a fish could have personally? You could remove some of his hiding spots, but he will probably continue to sleep at the bottom of the tank anyway. What I would do some times is put two bettas side by side in seperate bowls, of course, and watch them flare at one another. I think this actually kept them healthy because it gave them something to do!
Anyway,
Good Luck
If you look up where Beta's come from and what their natural habitat is like in nature you will see that they like environments with slow moving water and lots of plant cover. They do not like fighting currents and a tank with to much open space will stress them out. Hence he is hiding like so.
It's not abnormal. He may just be stressed from the move, and living in a small cup in the fish store. Also try turning off the pump. Unless it drives a filter it does more harm than good.
Bettas like small spaces and they dont move around very much unless its feeding time. Nothing wrong.
No air pump please. Check to see if that artificial plant is hard or it will tear its tails. Soft silk plants are okay.
My betta liked to sleep at the bottom of the tank but when I got him this ceramic tube which they sold at the fish store, he would go in there and sleep.
first take out the water pump!!
bettas has large tails its REALLY stressful for them if they have to swim in a current, its like trying to run against a storm with a parachute behind you!
here are some info for bettas! check if you did anything wrong!
ACCLIMATING A NEW FISH
What to do now that you’ve purchased your new betta? You need to take it home and slowly get him/her acclimated into its new home. To do this, you should prepare the tank the betta will be going into (making sure the temperature of this tank is room temperature (dechlorinated) water), and then slowly introduce water from the new tank into the holding container the betta came home in. Scoop a few tablespoons of water into the cup every 5 – 10 minutes for about 60 minutes.
NOTE: if you brought the fish home in a bag, it is recommended to place it into a cup for easier acclimation. Plastic solo cups work well for this purpose.
After the 60 minutes, the fish is ready to be carefully lowered into its new home and released!
DIET
Pellets:
HBH Betta Bites, Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
Flakes :
Should be specifically designed for bettas – high in proteins
NOTE: For young or very small bettas, flakes OR crushed pellets are a safer option – to avoid choking.
Frozen foods :
Adult Brine Shrimp, Blood Worms, Black Worms, Krill, Mosquito Larvae, Peas (*great for relieving constipation – see below)
Live foods:
Any of the above mentioned frozen foods can be fed live to bettas, but do run the risk of carrying parasites. Other live foods such as crickets, beetles, moths, etc. CAN be fed to bettas, however you must be 100% positive that the bugs have not been exposed to any pesticides, which can harm or kill your betta.
*Frozen pea preparation – place a small amount of dechlorinated water into microwaveable dish. Place a few peas (usually one pea is plenty for one betta) into the dish. Microwave on high power for 30 seconds. Remove from microwave, cool, remove shell, chop. Feed very small pieces to betta. Usually 2 - 3 pieces is plenty. Avoid feeding other foods to betta for 2 – 3 days. This should get things moving pretty quickly.
TANKMATES
It is important to remember that while most of these recommended tankmates may work fine with most bettas, some bettas do not tolerate any moving creatures in their tanks, and therefore caution should be exercised when adding any new creature into a betta tank.
The following are considered possible tankmates for a betta (male or female):
White Cloud Mountain Minnows
African Dwarf Frogs (NOT Clawed Frogs)
Large Snails (large enough so betta can not eat them)
The following are NOT recommended as possible tankmates for a betta:
Guppies, Mollies, Tetras, Gouramis, Platies, Neon Tetras, African Clawed Frogs, Barbs, or any other brightly colored fish that a betta might mistake as another betta.
AT NO POINT SHOULD TWO MALE BETTAS BE IN THE SAME TANK.
AT NO POINT SHOULD A MALE AND FEMALE BETTA BE PLACED IN THE SAME TANK – except when spawning.
It is acceptable for two males to share a DIVIDED tank, so long as the males are not constantly flaring at each other, causing stress. Giving a betta its own tank is generally the best idea.
TANK SPECIFICATIONS
The ideal tank for a betta will consist of silk or live plants to rest on, some sort of “toy” which could include a bridge, arch, cave, or even a makeshift toy such as a piece of pvc pipe. Bettas are extremely curious creatures and will stick their heads into anything. Make sure that any “toys” which are introduced into the tank has are no holes which a betta’s head could get stuck in. This can cause drowning and/or death, should a betta become too curious and stick its head in.
Make certain there are no open gaps anywhere along aquarium lids –bettas WILL jump – right out of their aquarium and onto the floor, if given the chance. Bettas do prefer tropical temperatures, ranging from 75 – 80 degrees. However, it is acceptable to keep a betta at a steady room temperature of 72 degrees or above. Constant temperatures are essential to keeping bettas healthy.
TANK MAINTENANCE
Regardless of tank size, ALL betta tanks require regular cleanings. ALL WATER that is introduced into a betta tank should be dechlorinated by liquid dechlorinator AND/OR aging, no exceptions.
The following water changing schedule is recommended:
1/2 to gallon to 2.5 gallons – 100% water change every 3 - 5 days
2.5 gallons to 4 gallons – 100% water change once per week
Larger, cycled tanks (established tanks that have been running with a filter for several weeks) – replace 20 – 30% of the water once a week, and gravel vacuum the tank every 2 weeks
NOTE: During 100% water changes, betta should be removed into a holding container (cups that bettas are purchased in from chain stores, solo cups, etc. make good choices) during the water change. Be sure to cover the cup to avoid a jumping betta! DO NOT use a net on a betta with very long fins. This can cause tearing and shredding of fins. Rather, use a cup and gently lower it in the water to catch the fish. Some, or most, of the water will need to be removed first to allow for catching of the fish.
Also during 100% water changes, wiping the tank out with a paper towel, rinsing décor and rinsing gravel or marbles is necessary.
NOTE: When changing water, there are 2 ways to prepare dechlorinated water – ideally, water should be dechlorinated and aged for 2 – 3 days in a holding tank before using for water changes. Sometimes aging water is not practical, so simply dechlorinating tap water is acceptable. ALWAYS make sure the water that the fish is going back into matches the temperature and PH of the water they came out of.
BETTA ILLNESSES
Bettas are susceptible to many illnesses. Some are easy to treat, others are virtually impossible. Some common signs of illness include: clamped fins, swollen or bulging eyes, shredded, torn or bloody fins, general listlessness, white spot, gold dustings, swollen belly, pineconing (or puffed out scales), and many more. With any illness, it is a good idea to begin research immediately. There are many great forums on the web which offer great advice and answers to many betta-related questions.
See all that * about bettas not like large amount of water? Kick it! I don't care what those fools think they know they don't know half of it. Bettas enjoy room to swim, they enjoy being able to move around not put in a cup and left there. MER!
I have a betta for is a rather passive betta and it took him almost three days after I got him to come out of the plant I have in my tank and it took him another 4 to stay out of it when I came over. When ever I do a water change he'll go back into "hiding". I'm sure that you just have a passive fish. Don't worry about it, as long as your tank temp is between 72 and 80F you'll be fine. You might want to remove the filter.
A 30 Gallon tank good enough for a saltwater fish tank?
I decided to pick up on the hobby of having saltwater fishes. As of now I chose the 30gal because it perfectly fits my room. So its sort of a limitation for me.
A blue surgeonfish, seastarfish, cleaner shrimp, True Percula Clownfish, and maybe one angel fish is what I'm planning to put in.
I did some research and I believe I am making a "Fish Only Tank" with a few ornaments.
It would be great if any amateurs or experts gave me some insight on what it takes to care for a saltwater fish tank.
So far I have bought: the tank, sand, sea-salt, and a filter called marineland biowheel. Although I purchased this filter, anyone know if marineland is a good filter or maybe I should be looking into something else? This filter costed me $35 and glass tank was $80.
Since I am new to this, I do think I may be the best customer to get gipped. Haha.
Answers:
first not to burst your bubble but the blue surgeon will not be good for your tank one they are not the easiest fish to keep they get ick if you look at them wrong and two they get huge and need at least a 120 gal tank to be happy at full growth, that said yes a 30 is a good salt tank to start with small easy to work with and not a huge amount of work done on it for maint. the angel be carefull and get a dwarf ( coral beuty, keyhole, midnight, pygmy, potters) the other angels get massive and are monsters the most beutifull angel imo is the imperitor angel but once grown are a$$e$ and eat everything. starfish are nice but you have to watch out if you get them from a petshop like petco cause they get green brittles and dont know that they will trap and eat your fish. starfish require very clean water quality and a very stable salinity same with your shrimp. once you get a shrimp you cut the fish you get in half. the filter you got the brand is quite good i use them on all my tanks as backups but i wouldve got the double sided bioweel. if you only have 1 star and 1 shrimp you wont have to worry about it too much but if you get much more you will have to look into getting a protein skimmer. needed only for inverts and corals. if you have any other specific ?s email me
why not..good hobby..
I looked into salt water fish and was told 50 or 100 gallon tank is the minimum, that was the end of my research. That was far to big for me.
I think angel fish are fresh water.
Please research the nitrogen cycle. I don't think you should add more than one fish to a tank that size though you may be able to get away with it if they're small.
Damsels are a good, hardy starter fish.
thirty gallon is good for surgeon fish and cleaner shurinmo not too sure about clown fish though. but i'm pretty sure your tank is adequate for those fish. marineland is ok but you should look for aqeta which is best for the fish you chose.
You should really start off with a 55-gallon tank since it would be more capable of stabilizing your water chemistry. A 30 gallon won't be the most stable of tanks and if you must buy fish for it then only some of the hardiest of fish.like damselfish. You might not have much luck with other fish though.
The marineland biowheel is a good filter but isn't the most ideal for dealing with saltwater setups. What makes it such an effective filter is that it mostly harvests bacteria upon the wheel but more bacteria means carbon dioxide. Not only does this mean you鈥檒l have less oxygen in your tank but the increased amount of carbon dioxide will lower your pH and buffering ability. Think about it:
- Saltwater already contains a lower level of oxygen as opposed to freshwater so this means you鈥檒l have to be very careful about how much you put in the tank.
- In a saltwater tank you need to keep your pH high鈥ot low. Buffering or alkalinity aids in preventing pH drops.
Canister filters tend to work better for saltwater tanks, in my opinion, because they rely more on chemical filtration as opposed to biological. Yes, they鈥檒l cost more and they are difficult to setup then your current power filter but it is largely up to you. Most "fish-only" saltwater aquariumists tend to go with trickle filters with canister filters.
A 30 gallon will work fine for your first salt water tank. My first tank was a 30 gallon also鈥? You also need to pick up a protein skimmer to go with that pump and a good light. You will need about 3 watts of light for every gallon of water in you tank. So you will want at least 120 watt light I鈥檇 look for a 150 or so鈥?ornaments aren鈥檛 really too good for your tank. Just make sure you get plenty of live rock the best advice I can give is to take it slow and be patient. Oh and get a good book on marine tanks.
A blue surgeonfish, seastarfish, cleaner shrimp, True Percula Clownfish, and maybe one angel fish is what I'm planning to put in.
I did some research and I believe I am making a "Fish Only Tank" with a few ornaments.
It would be great if any amateurs or experts gave me some insight on what it takes to care for a saltwater fish tank.
So far I have bought: the tank, sand, sea-salt, and a filter called marineland biowheel. Although I purchased this filter, anyone know if marineland is a good filter or maybe I should be looking into something else? This filter costed me $35 and glass tank was $80.
Since I am new to this, I do think I may be the best customer to get gipped. Haha.
Answers:
first not to burst your bubble but the blue surgeon will not be good for your tank one they are not the easiest fish to keep they get ick if you look at them wrong and two they get huge and need at least a 120 gal tank to be happy at full growth, that said yes a 30 is a good salt tank to start with small easy to work with and not a huge amount of work done on it for maint. the angel be carefull and get a dwarf ( coral beuty, keyhole, midnight, pygmy, potters) the other angels get massive and are monsters the most beutifull angel imo is the imperitor angel but once grown are a$$e$ and eat everything. starfish are nice but you have to watch out if you get them from a petshop like petco cause they get green brittles and dont know that they will trap and eat your fish. starfish require very clean water quality and a very stable salinity same with your shrimp. once you get a shrimp you cut the fish you get in half. the filter you got the brand is quite good i use them on all my tanks as backups but i wouldve got the double sided bioweel. if you only have 1 star and 1 shrimp you wont have to worry about it too much but if you get much more you will have to look into getting a protein skimmer. needed only for inverts and corals. if you have any other specific ?s email me
why not..good hobby..
I looked into salt water fish and was told 50 or 100 gallon tank is the minimum, that was the end of my research. That was far to big for me.
I think angel fish are fresh water.
Please research the nitrogen cycle. I don't think you should add more than one fish to a tank that size though you may be able to get away with it if they're small.
Damsels are a good, hardy starter fish.
thirty gallon is good for surgeon fish and cleaner shurinmo not too sure about clown fish though. but i'm pretty sure your tank is adequate for those fish. marineland is ok but you should look for aqeta which is best for the fish you chose.
You should really start off with a 55-gallon tank since it would be more capable of stabilizing your water chemistry. A 30 gallon won't be the most stable of tanks and if you must buy fish for it then only some of the hardiest of fish.like damselfish. You might not have much luck with other fish though.
The marineland biowheel is a good filter but isn't the most ideal for dealing with saltwater setups. What makes it such an effective filter is that it mostly harvests bacteria upon the wheel but more bacteria means carbon dioxide. Not only does this mean you鈥檒l have less oxygen in your tank but the increased amount of carbon dioxide will lower your pH and buffering ability. Think about it:
- Saltwater already contains a lower level of oxygen as opposed to freshwater so this means you鈥檒l have to be very careful about how much you put in the tank.
- In a saltwater tank you need to keep your pH high鈥ot low. Buffering or alkalinity aids in preventing pH drops.
Canister filters tend to work better for saltwater tanks, in my opinion, because they rely more on chemical filtration as opposed to biological. Yes, they鈥檒l cost more and they are difficult to setup then your current power filter but it is largely up to you. Most "fish-only" saltwater aquariumists tend to go with trickle filters with canister filters.
A 30 gallon will work fine for your first salt water tank. My first tank was a 30 gallon also鈥? You also need to pick up a protein skimmer to go with that pump and a good light. You will need about 3 watts of light for every gallon of water in you tank. So you will want at least 120 watt light I鈥檇 look for a 150 or so鈥?ornaments aren鈥檛 really too good for your tank. Just make sure you get plenty of live rock the best advice I can give is to take it slow and be patient. Oh and get a good book on marine tanks.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)